Albi

Europe is a bit back to front, many cities I know (apart from Europe) have pretty places around the centre, and the city centre is something you don't visit too often. Europe is different, it is often better to close one's eyes until you hit the centre. Albi is no exception.

In the 1400's, Albi seemed to have a fair amount of wealth thanks to the pastel industry, centered in nearby Toulouse. The leaves of the pastel plant were used to dye cloth blue. The importance of pastel declined with the arrival of indigo from the west. However, it is evident that once upon a time it was a rich town - or probably a town with a rich few. A well restored city, with characteristic red brick from the era, Albi still feels full of riches.

The first treasure is the cathedral, which itself has a few treasures. After having taking in a couple of awe inspiring 'churches' in Italy last year, I was surprised to feel wowed by a huge little-known cathedral in a small town in the south. If you get a chance to pass within a hundred kilometres of Albi, do yourself a favour and take a detour. I have never seen stone filigree like it. I'm not generally big on cathedrals, but this one is also special in that the rood screen has been preserved. A common feature in cathedrals of the era, the rood screen separates the nave and chancel (I get the feeling is was to keep the plebs away from the righteous... whatever) Either way, I am glad that the local bunch decided to ignore the church's instruction to demolish the rood screen, back in the days when they tried to boost their membership by allowing masses to see the mass. The skill to create that sculpture is incredible.

Since the rood screen stayed, they nuked the wall on the opposite side to the chancel to install another altar. So, cathedral Sainte Cécile is one of the few with an altar on the west side. In trashing the centre portion of the wall, Jesus was removed from the huge fresco of 'The Last Judgement', leaving the damned and blessed both staring at not much, quite weird.

Above the two thirds fresco is a the huge organ, still in working condition, with over 3000 pipes. Quite impressive.

Another Albi treasure is the Toulouse Lautrec museum. I have always kind of liked his work; a result of a rather tormented life, I imagine, and an interesting period in Paris' history. The museum sports a collection from throughout his life, the visit is made all the more insightful by the guide.

I am sure there are a lot of other important and interesting things that we glossed over, but I will remember Albi.

The cathedral that took 200 years to build.





















Interesting mix of styles with beautiful fine stone work








































This is the better preserved back of the rood screen





















From the nave

The rather large organ, I didn't get a photo of The Last Judgement, but you can see the dammed and blessed either side of the opening to the 'new' chancel. Sorry photos in general were a bit tricky not as much light as it seems.

The red brick streets of Albi


































































The gardens behind the ToulouseLautrec museum, and below, the museum itself.





















Hope you get wowed unexpectedly.