Sunday, November 18, 2007

Velib'ing

Velib' The best way to see Paris, especially on the weekends with a little less traffic around. Camera strap over the shoulder and shoot from the hip so to speak. Lots of rubbish shots of sky and road, but some worked, sort of ;)















What a powerhouse
















I'm being followed















Football anyone?





















Just do it crossing...















Overtaken by a chick on a postman bike, no wait! It's got gears ;)

When we stopped I got to take pictures that were square in the frame at least.





















The Petit Palais, and look right then left:














I suspect with the weather getting chilly Velib'ing into the night may become a little less fun... beanie anyone?

Saturday, November 17, 2007

Italy - Cinque Terre

Apart from the art that is quite surreal, well not the art, but the feeling of standing in font of an original, you get the idea? Well, one of the things about Italy that will stay with me for long time is the beautiful Cinque Terre region. Before we get there though we made a detour via Luka, a very cool walled city, nothing fantastic, but we had great food and a good stroll around. One of the interesting things to see is the cathedral with all its unique columns.





















On to the Cinque Terre, in many ways it made me think about some beautiful coastlines in South Africa, although they don’t have vines clinging to the slopes, old pastel shade buildings lining winding cobble roads and the light that just seemed special… the Cinque Terre does.

Not a place to live, but to escape and let the soul soak up some character. The Cinque Terre is national park made up of 5 villages spaced out just north of La Spezia, on the west coast of Italy; Riomaggiore, Manarola, Vernazza, Monterosso and finally Levanto. The coastline climbs out of the Mediterranean steeply which is probably what has allowed the region to retain its character. The inaccessibility saved it from being conquered in the ol’ days and nowadays keeps the volume of people manageable, allowing you many a chance to feel all alone with your giant blue swimming pool.

A convenient rail service links all the villages, this is the way to go, buy a day pass and you’re sorted. A road runs along the crest of the coastline affording spectacular views and wish-I-had-an-Alfa driving, but very little else, access to the villages is limited and, I would guess, parking even more so. The boat trip linking all the villages is well worth it, especially as we timed it just right to catch the last launch, and effectively have ourselves a near sunset cruise. Magic! For the more energetic the coastal path lets you forget about trains and the world, this lovers' stroll connects the towns with the occasional strenuous stretch. Aaah and to cool off from a hot mornings walk in the cool blue sea.

The Cinque Terre, a perfect way to bid farewell to Italy and chill the travel weary.














Lovers' walk with the padlocks holding them together, not sure through the eye is the best way...















Stunning blue as we strolled on lovers' walk.





















And an Aloey type flower stem asprouting.
















Hmm tempting... all the harvest is carried by people, no machines on those slopes.





















Pastel buildings of one of the five...





















The Cinque Terre 'duomo',





















and again, 'cause I like it that's why.















Another of the five from the boat.
















Vines and village, quite quaint!















Treated to beautiful sunsets.














If you want to get away and take in some natural beauty go to South Africa... but if you're in Europe and you don't like planes, well then the Cinque Terre is a must, they will even throw in heaps of charm.

Friday, November 02, 2007

Italy - Tuscan Traverse

The plan: head south from Florence, take in some cities of interest and then across to Pisa on the coast before heading back ‘home’ along the coast. First stop after Florence was San Giminiano, perched on a hill with its towers, characteristic of the area. This quaint city is responsible for a fair bit of wear and tear on the camera shutter, couldn’t help it though, everything is so picturesque. Not much there other than charm, but what else does one need, oh did I mention the world champ ice cream shop? Camping in an oak tree ‘forest’ wasn’t too schabby either, the morning shade keeping us in our sleeping bags long enough to feel a bit more like holiday.











San Giminiano from afar, the dusty grey of olive trees in the foreground.





















Not just Asterix and Obelix were into their wild boar...


































The twin towers of San Giminiano.

We finally escaped the tourists on a hot Sunday in Sienna, a quiet day with most shops within the city being closed. What a pleasure, especially after the hustle of Florence and a lesser extent San Giminiano. It seems an interesting city that was once much more prosperous than it is today, partly because of smallpox and partly the invasion from Florence. As with most of Tuscany, very scenic, but also interestingly home to the Pallio; a horse race equivalent of Aussie no-rules. It seems to be the neighbourhoods that enter teams into a no-holds barred horse race that essentially is a few circuits of the ‘track’, the winner being the one that is still on his horse. Of all the cities we had seen, Sienna seemed to be the city most shaped by the locals, they really do still lived in their city despite the tourists.



















































One of the only town squares I have ever seen that is not flat, sometimes squares aren't squares, but normally flat...

Evening drinks in Montereggioni was enough time to take in this cute village atop a hill, surrounded by scenery that is Tuscan essence. I would go back just for the light.












Montereggioni as the sun goes down.













































The clichéd Tuscan scene does exist ;)

The seaside called; Pisa and camping on the Mediterranean Sea. Suddenly camping returned to the month long caravan variety that we found on the lakes, more of the locals getting away I guess, blah not my idea of fun.





















Baptistere at Pisa.















The cathedral.











Yes, the tourists doing their part to hold up the tower, posing for photies.





















It really does lean...

Pisa was really cool. The tower leans, and that evening out was just perfect, great restaurant in a very simple feeling city. Us, the travel weary took to the beach and soaked up the sun, and chilled…and yip, you would never have guessed it, but we watched the whales. Until we hit Pisa I hadn’t seen a single fat Italian, that title was reserved for tourists from the far west. Pisa beach however was just nasty, and what’s worse is that they had procreated; the not so little ones were doing their best to outweigh their parents. What ever happened to running, playing and burying your brother on the beach instead of stuffing your face?

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Italy - To Firenze

Leaving Bologna after our brief recce, we headed south on a road to rival the autoroute blanche, as you progress the valleys become deeper and the road winds its way from tunnel to bridge. The highway is narrow and heavy with traffic, being peak holiday season and all, although nothing to complain about, besides the excitement is building, Florence awaits. It is one of those places I guess you have to visit, and if you do so, do yourself a favour, buy a tent and a mattress and make use of the superb Camping Michelangelo. The camp site is shaded by olive trees and sits up on the hill overlooking Florence. I can’t believe any hotel in Florence could have a better location. As with most camping in Italy, the facilities were excellent, far exceeding expectations.















View from the camp site, through the olive trees















Everyone goes for the art no doubt, and jeez, it is everyone that goes. My least favourite pastime of jostling with tourists had to be endured to take in some of the wonders that lie in Florence. I am not so sure that one does ever take it in though. I still feel it to be a little surreal to have stood in front of David for example. It’s just not what you expect to do, that’s the stuff of coffee table books. We took on the Americans and Japanese in the art of gallery visiting. Highlights: the Uffizi, Academia and the Palais Pitti, not to mention the Duomo, Santa Crocce, bridges and of course the frivolous; yummy ice cream and granita. It was incredibly hot though, not quite touristing weather, that did get us down a bit. Florence cannot be done in a day, and it was a pleasure to spend the extra night under our olive tree and stroll into town the next morning.















Ponte Vecchio from as seen from the Uffizi (below).















For me, the beauty of the art was rivalled by marvelling at the period and circumstance in which it was created. Something that is difficult to describe and I think it’s a personal thing, go see for yourself. In the galleries however, some rooms were closed and some were sharing an attendant to keep the unevolved amongst us at bay. The natural light seemed to be left to the discretion of the staff member who may or may not wish to catch a tan that day, and the humidity and air conditioning were at best random. I’m no expert, but I thought these things important in preserving art. It all seemed to have that lack of funding feeling about it. Something has to be done about this. You can’t have treasures like that in your country and not look after them properly. Focus! Sell Modena and use the cash, hmm probably won’t get enough though…








































Two Daves, neither the real thing, photos of the real thing are not allowed and those taken from the waist with a new camera and the wrong setting don't turn out so lekker ;)















A normalish plain 'house' sporting some very Tuscan colours.















A not so normal, not so plain church with beautiful marble work.

From here, south and then to the coast.

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Italy - Milano to Bologna

It wasn’t long before we realised that the Dutch are a little like aeroplanes. You see, after 11 September, many axii of evil ago, when all the planes were grounded they actually found parking space to be a problem. Well, after Italy, I am sure that if all the Dutch actually went home there wouldn’t be enough room for them. Maybe it was our camping approach that led us to encounter the more adventurous.

Needless to say we didn’t meet any Nederlanders in Milan as this was our only brush with the three star hotel. Cool city, but the hotel leaves no memories. After the lakes, it was also the first of many a Duomo. A spectacular cathedral; well worth getting a pigeon’s eye view from the ramparts. We were already starting to get into the ice cream thing, Milan marks the priciest sorbet I have ever had, together with a killer lemon soda. You just have to have respect for the carabinieri, they know about the good things in life; Alfas. Perhaps more thieves get away when something goes haywire, but the cops look happy to be cruising the streets.















The stain glass inside Milan's cathedral.

















True petrol heads giving directions















Pedestrian boulevard looking down to the castle.















Pigeon eye view

I can’t say Milan strikes me as a city I have to go back to, but it was kind to us.

So off south-eastish, Parma, and onto Bologna. Parma is small and quaint, obviously lunch had to be ham and melon, also some marvellous mozzarella. Italy was showing our stomachs a great time. From Parma we visited Torrechiara, a picturesque castle just outside the city, and then onto Modena. From Torrechiara we got our first taste of the rolling hills and beautiful countryside that would make up much of the rest of the trip.





















Batistere in Parma, clad in the beautiful pink marble of the region.





















Pedestrian street in Parma.











Torrechiara from afar.















View from Torrechiara.

Modena, hmm Modena. The best thing to have come out of Modena are fast cars and vinegar. Otherwise it is a hole! This was low point of the trip, thankfully a fleeting one as we camped in a mozzi infested dump on the outskirts of town (better than the other option slap bang in the highway), and then hit the road to Bologna. Unless you are visiting a Lamborghini or Ferrari spot, take the ring road.

Bologna surprised, perhaps like food flavoured by hunger, Bologna was just beautiful after Modena. To be fair though I think it would even be enjoyed if approach from Florence in the south. Great architecture, cultural treasures and a classy atmosphere make this city with its arched gallery pavements very special. Back in the old days every family seemed to have built themselves a tower. Not many still exist, but in Bologna two stand side by side. Bravely we took on the tall one, 500 steps later, neither vertigo nor my great physical shape helping, we were rewarded by a 360 degree view of the red stone and distant hills that make up this gem of a city. Going to Italy? Go to Bologna!





















One is used to the mannetjie piss fountain all over but this is a first for me... Mermaids in the Neptune fountain in Bologna.





















Amazing marquetry in a church in Bologna, many panels behind the choir.





















Cathedral in Bologna, unfinished façade, half clad in decorative pink marble and and bare up top... much like the mermaid.





















The arched pavements that seemed characteristic of Bologna. Perfect in rain and sun... why don't we all have them???





















The twin towers of Bologna.















A lousy photo, but an idea of the stairs clinging to the walls... jelly knees.















View over the red roofs of Bologna.

Next stop Tuscany...