Conspiracy theory

It is quite amazing how we take it for granted that there is this hulk of a rock floating around the earth. We walk around with it 'above' us like it's completely normal, which it is, but WOW!

Well yesterday I visited the moon, yes we walked on the moon. The atmosphere rarefied, dry, hasn't seen rain for years, warm in the sun and cold in the shadows. I haven't lost it, here's the proof:
















It is just like in the books, irrefutable evidence that my fellow astronaut, a size 10, set foot on the moon... Well that, or the Americans landed in the Atacama desert near Antofagasta in '69. Judging by the sticky tape and tinfoil Eagle twin brother in the Smithsonian, hhmmm I wouldn't be surprised.

It's not the kind of place I could live, but to be out there in the middle of vast nothingness is pretty darn special. Especially the drive in the evening when the light adds definition to the endless expanse and all its little bumps and creases. Without all the things that make life so simple you realise that you are not nearly so significant. Heading down off the Andes into the red sunset offers a two hour downhill drive, can't be many places where you can do that.

So some views of nothing on the way down the little hill...























Hope you have a magic week and get to feel like you're my fellow size 10 desertanaut, plodding the moon.

City Dogs

I decided the other day that I am actually quite lucky. As much as airlines, customs officials and hotels go out of their way to inconvenience any travel arrangement, I am pretty fortunate to be able to see different parts of the world. The indignity of getting half undressed for the metal detector at the airport is worth it. It is not just the beautiful or sometimes ugly scenery, the diverse people or cultures, there are times when it is just about watching the dogs.
















Santiago dogs have it good with fire hydrant dreams

















Sao Paulo dogs need to get out a little more

















Cajamarca dogs have the run of the house

little things

When you move to a new place, you expect 'them' to drive on the wrong side of the road, speak a different language and use funny money. You are ready for all the big stuff, no matter how big a change, it isn't something odd. It's the little stuff, that's what makes you wonder how you have become so conditioned. The little stuff that catches you off guard. For instance here in Chile most of the salt and pepper cellars I have come across have the white salty stuff coming out of the multi holed dispenser, this fits with the general adversity to things 'picante', but it's wrong! I remember handling London just fine until my taste buds were assaulted by cheese and onion flavour from a blue packet. That's wrong! Everybody knows blue means salt and vinegar. In fact I think that island may suffer from some blue-green colour blindness. Ask any 3 year old and they will tell you cream soda is green, where do the brits come with blue?

It's the little things that count, here are some other little things from here and there:

I know the photies don't fit the story, but a picture of a chip packet isn't that exciting... besides they're little...

Cajamarca

About an hour north of Lima by plane, just inland of Trujillo is a beautiful little spot called Cajamarca. I love the place and I can only describe why by saying it has aura. It has awful poverty and ugly buildings. But, and it's a big but, it has some magic architecture, beautiful people, great cheese and sooo much character.

There are about 100 000 people who live in this gold rich area. It has an interesting history dating back over 3000 years, and is where Atahualpa, the last Inca king, was killed by the Spanish conquistadors. Unlike Chile, when walking in the street, you are still very aware that there was an ancient civilization that roamed the area, and I guess that is one aspect that makes it special.

Just before Atahualpa was killed he filled a 'randsome room' with gold and silver as payment for his life, guess that didn't work... the room is 88 cubic metres.... hmmmm that is about 30 billion dollars in today's money. The Spanish must have really not liked him...

View up the stairs to Santa Apolonia, a church and lookout spot just above the town





















Church in town, recently renovated and painted
















Typical street in town
















A lot of the buildings are adobe with beautiful balcony windows and elaborate doors and entrances
















Courtyard of our hacienda style hotel







Cajamarca from Santa Apolonia

Wishing you a week where there is some beautiful aura to appreciate.

Handsome now

So what's all this handsome talk about, it can't be natural. Indeed it is all in the eye of the beholder, and the eye has been compromised by the green stuff - coca sour!

There is a big debate about who makes the best pisco sour, in fact who 'owns' the pisco sour. Forget international waters and 'the war', this is the important one, just one of the many niggles between Chile and Peru.

You're wasting your time! Whether Peruvian or Chilean, they just don't come close to the smooth coca sour. To be found in the beautiful town of Cajamarca, this Peruvian pisco sour with the green tinge, as a result of the pisco being steeped in coca leaves, takes the cake!

¡¡¡Handsome now!!! (stopped before getting rich and bullet proof)

Laundry day

It has been week of way too much graft and staring at things technical, so I thought I would drop you a note to let you know that the militar school seems to have tossed their flag in the laundry. In fact the whole of Santiago seems like it has had a good wash. The thirty odd degrees we have been having for the last few weeks seem to have sorted out that pollution (which must be responsible for Santiago having more pharmacies per capita than any other town in the world). So now there are beautiful views of ol' cerro el plomo, thats the 5400 and a few metre peak that lurks alongside the bowl that is Santiago. It is not always visible through cloud and smog, but lately its been looking real close and calling. Mid January and there is still snow up there, in fact there is still quite a bit given I haven't needed an umbrella for ages. Nice!

Next week I am off to visit the mountains of Peru for work, I am indeed looking forward to those Humitas and coca sours.
















Laundry day at Escuela Militar















Hope you have a wonderful weekend and get to feel as handsome as I will after that coca sour... Hasta leugo

¡2006!

Without asking if we were ready it seems to have arrived, 2006 is upon us, and shortly we will be bombarded by the valentine's marketers, just before the Easter bunny has his say…. Hmmm I think I now know where 2005 went.

So before the new year feeling gets replaced by new ad campaigns; Happy New Year… all the best for 2006!!! Hope it is a great one for you. A friend told me her resolution is “to laugh more”. I like it!

New Year's fireworks at Valparaiso, Chile. Photo from Mecurio online (www.emol.cl).