Sunday, August 20, 2006

Happy Anniversary!

Well it has been a year since LA600 form Buenos Aires touched down in Santiago... 'home'. As the saying goes, "home is where the heart is", so you can probably imagine I didn't call it that for quite some time. Maybe if I moved from south-west Yemen it would have been different, but leaving one of the greatest cities in the world made the 'home' concept all the more tardy in arriving. Don't get me wrong, Santiago is a magic place, but anyone who thinks you can really live in a new city within the first six months is smoking his socks.

After a year I am probably in a position to comment on what it's like to live in Santiago, but somehow I feel it would still be pretty uninformed. One thing for sure is that it is quite the happening spot, the beginnings, but happening nonetheless. Even within the year development is evident, well infrastructurally, there is also a very visible emerging yuppie class that makes me think 'Hyde Park' (not the big green one...the one next to Saaandten doll). The yuppie is easily identified by the not so shy call "graaaaacias" normally by the lesser bejewelled jeep wielding santiaguina... smacks of sincerity.

This isn't really Chile though, if you are brave enough to catch a yellow micro you will see Chile. The real workers that seem to spend the commute as rest time in between being badgered by chocolate vendors, wannabe evangelist intestinal cleansing powder salesmen and the odd panpipe guitar duo. Every ride is worth your 380 pesos, money can't buy the adrenalin from being half a metre form another micro doing 80 km/h through the city, the other day we even had free entertainment from a nutta preaching against cleavage and condemning us evil doers to hell, looking around the faces on the bus I thought half of us were already there... aaah, just then another rush from a late braking manoeuvre.


I think it is safe to say Chile is one huge contradiction, every day brings along another set of conflicting truths. Although Chile isn't charming, its charm lies in this tension, to be found everywhere between rich and poor, north and south, poodle and pavement special.

It is difficult to generalise about the people, as with any nation. But hey, that's never stopped me before. In fact I think Chile is perhaps easier than most places, as the nation is pretty homogeneous. Oooops, I guess all those Spanish noses won't like me saying that, but the truth is just about everybody’s great grandfather thought that there was a certain something about their indigenous 'neighbour'. I have met some wonderful people, and I've bumped into a lot of crooks, generally though it seems the average guy in the street is just interested in getting by. There is most definitely a class structure in place and racism at work, apart from colour it seems to have to do with who hangs at Starbucks, is seen at the 'right' church or flashes his Mont Blanc pen. Gringo living in Santiago is hellava expensive for what it is, I guess this is how they hang onto their island of elite. The genuine salt of the earth type are to be found though, and I am very grateful to my Chileno friends who make the world of difference to my life here, I think they are special though.

The real kick I get from Chile is being just an earth tremor away from the great Andes, they really are spectacular. I get the feeling they have also played a huge part in this countries development, serving as a formidable barrier to the rest of the world. To be in the mountains is to feel the soul of South America, harsh, beautiful and ancient. I am amazed at how under utilised they are. Perhaps just as well, they are taken awfully for granted and the respect shown by locals can be counted in coke cans and plastic bags. Gratefully the population density, or lack of it, leaves much of the beauty untouched.

It has been a year that at times has felt like three, at others just a few months, either way an incredible experience. If you have the opportunity to visit Chile you must, it is a wonderful place. It is safe and easy going, well enough developed to cater to most needs, backwards enough to be quite quaint, and certainly foreign enough to be interesting. You will get ripped off, write it off to experience, at least you will also feel warm and welcome. In Santiago you will have to kick and scratch a bit to find the character, but it's there, bring boots. Do yourself a favour and take in the second most awesome mountains in the world, whether it's skiing, trekking or just a drive they will tickle something inside.
















Valle Nevado two weeks ago, a chilly day for skiing, but beautiful.





















How's that sky for winter... today up at cerro San Critobal. Graaaacias













The highest peak is el plomo, the highest visible from Santiago, a beautiful winter's day, just begged for a bike ride to visit the virgin.




















Best click on this one to make it worthwhile. The panorama from the road riding to cerro San Critobal. A stunning day for winter. Winters are normally plagued by horrendous pollution in Santiago. Stacks of people smoke here, I always joke that if they stopped smoking the pollution would clear up. Well, during the week a law was passed that prohibits smoking in public places, hmmm seems like I have proof ;) Well not actually, as it seems not well enforced, guess the police commissioner's wife's brother's cousin is the Lucky Strike agent in town, and they probably go to the same church.

No regrets, coming to Chile was a great move, full of wonderful experiences, and I'm sure it will only get better as I start to understand the people and get to know places. Who knows maybe one day I will actually be able to give you an informed opinion.

Sunday, July 30, 2006

Horizontal sand and squeaky snow...

As the title implies it has been a contrasting week. Most of it was spent up near Antofagasta in Chile, the dry north, add to that some altitude and it becomes the harsh dry north. A frontal system swept its way through Chile during the week bringing winds and freezing conditions to the otherwise dry desert. Needless to say I have ingested more than my RDA of dust these last days.
















There is not a lot to see in Antofagasta, so this ranks amongst the must sees - La Portada













About halfway to Argentina, lots of nothingness. It has its own kind of beauty.


Won't complain about the front though, the cold fingers were worth the snow that awaited in Santiago. Even Manquehue, a comparitively low hill in the suburbs had a light dusting... nice! Needless to say skiing called once again, but being the last weekend of school holidays we decided against the trip up the hill to Farellones (Friday saw a 3 hour traffic jam to get up there) and opted for the more exclusive Portillo again. Squeaky cold snow, magic.

















The view looking out over the lake, in two weeks it has done quite a bit of freezing. Will soon be able to skate.

















View from Tio Bob's lunch spot (hmmm a bit of a gramatical mix of Spanish and English, can I do that? You know what I mean though...)






















That burried thing is Tio Bob's, we had to venture inside when the wind picked up, a forecast maximum of 1 ˚C was plenty optimistic
















So optimistic the 10 minutes outside saw our tomoatoes freeze, how about we finish this inside.

















The view from snowed in Tio Bob's, quite festive inside, awesome spot for a party! By the way, the wine really helps the skiing ;)






















One of the longer runs at Portillo actually passes over the national road to Argentina, the lift back up is quite hairy... quite weird passing over all the poor sods that have been stuck on the wrong side of the mountain the past week. The pass had just been opened again, hence all the trucks crawling their freight across the border. On the way home we passed at least 30 km of trucks queued up at the carabineros check point.

















At least the slow drive home gave us the oportunity to take in the beautiful light that the sunset brought with it.





















A spray of soft powder snow while you recover from your tumble... that's what I wish you this week.

Monday, July 17, 2006

Saturday, July 15, 2006

The white stuff...

Today was a great day to show what Santiago has to offer, just up the road, well two hours on the way to Mendoza is Chile's number one spot to enjoy the white stuff - Portillo. It seemed great timing as the road was closed until this morning following a snow storm during the week that left 2 metres in its wake. Beyond Portillo, the road remained closed, but luckily for us the carabineros had opened it up until the resort. And what a perfect day, while the south is experiencing terrible floods, mud slides and is in a state of high alert, we experienced the calm between the storms.

















7 a.m. Sunrise in Santiago, the air has been washed, and the days are crisp, not yet unbearably cold. It bode well...

















The road sounds like it has been closed for more that a week, as one of the 9 km of trucks said they had been there since Saturday waiting for the road to Argentina to be cleared of snow.

That's why I say, "Duckie!
Don't grumble! Don't stew!
Some critters are much-much,
oh, ever so much-much,
so muchly much-much more unlucky that you!" - Dr Seuss


They are hoping for tomorrow.

















As you step out of the Portillo hotel this is what greets you, largo las incas. Argentina awaits over that peak.






















Ah! sunshine that's better....

















Sombody's done a good job of losing a ski...

















An incredible lunch spot, Tio Bob's, sits on top of one of the advanced runs near a cliff. Magic views down over the lake and the Portillo resort. Believe it or not that lift you see below ends up here. I thought U2 would be my only vertigo posting...

















Apparently later in the winter you can skate on this... stunning!
















Way home, looking back from whence we came. The towering Aconcagua, the highest peak outside of the Himalayas. 1 metre shy of 6960.

A beautiful way to spend a Saturday! By the minor protests I hear from parts of my body I haven't heard from for years, if ever, I suspect I will need another weeekend to recover.

Wish you a week of calm between storms and a little bit of the white stuff.

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Ooh la laa

Last week I was lucky enough to land up in the world's number one tourist destination, and it isn't difficult to see why. Beautiful people, wonderful scenery, delicious food, old culture, modern convenience... the list goes on, I guess the worst thing about it is having to share it with all the tourists. That is why the best times where whilst lost in some back streets far from a loud American accent or flag bearing tour guide. France must be one of the few nations in the world that conjures up an emotion of sorts no matter who you talk to. Love it or hate it, you have to experience it! Please, just not while I'm there ;)

I would have to admit to being in the 'love it' camp.. how could you not??? smelly cheese, smooth wines and unpronounceable cuisine - can't go wrong. Gastronomic delights together with the sense of style, tradition and romance with which the French live... hmmm I guess you have to get used to the odd jealous tourist, and since I was one, I am glad they put up with me, seemed to bump into kind people at every turn.

















Palace of Versailles

















Chateau Cahmbord in the Loire valley






















Chambord has a beautiful double spiral staircase (not picture here :)) inspired by Leonardo da Vinci

















Recognise a certain Moulinsart Tintin castle? Inspired by Cheverny, this privately owned chateau.





















Cheverny also has one of the largest packs of hunting dogs, grubs up...























Chapel at Chateau d'Amboise

















Chateau d'Amboise

















My favourite... Chateau Chenonceau

































Beautiful gardens of Villandry


















A decorative roof of a little spot in Bourgogne between Dijon and Beaune

















Monet's Nympheas at the recently re-opened l'Orangerie museum after being closed for 6 years for renovation.






















Hmmm not so sure about the new light brown colour it is sporting, must have taken a fair bit of painting.

















Ahhhh... Paris by night.. mmmm


Magic week just flew by, it is incredible to think what stories those chateaux walls could tell...

Wishing you a smelly cheese french wine picnic!

Sunday, June 04, 2006

Peru - character

Last week was a bit of an escape to get a bit closer to the gods, they do live in the mountains, they must also have darn fine outdoor gear becasue it was pretty chilly. I was lucky enough to spend an evening and morning in the high 3000 metres near Cajamarca. Well, near as the crow flies.

Peru has such beautiful countryside and the people always seem great, now I guess all they need is a leader, amazing how they have managed to defy Hobson's choice with a second round of voting.
















Africa has great sunsets, but I guess South America isn't too shabby either.

















They say you can't go wrong with property investment... like my new house?


















Doesn't seem to mind the cold.
















How's that rock formation!


Hope you get a little escape to your favourite spot this week.

Sunday, May 21, 2006

¡Ah... The Mountains!

BBBbbbbbrrrrrrrr last entry I mentioned winter is around, well yesterday found myself in the thick of it. Slightly different day to when Raul was with me, but nevertheless beautiful. Always awesome to be in the mountains, the gods do live there!

The mission, drive to the dam and then head towards Argentina on bike. A first for me, cycling in the snow. Embalse del Yeso was getting the odd snow flake but further up the valley, where the cycling started, was the land or horizontal snow, the worst kind! Well, I guess not as bad as 5th Ave been walked in for a week kind of snow, nor maybe as bad as the 3 feet that are stopping me get out my house kind of snow... ok so maybe not the worst, but when on a bike... hmmm yes I know, I will stop now as this all points to my mental health.

Great fun, but needless to say the biking was abandoned after a short cold while, before we became statistics, and the exploration towards Argentina was continued in a heated 4x4 (no, not Raul's 206 again, afraid it wouldn't have cut it).

How lucky all Santiaguinos are to have this on their doorstep!













Arrival at embalse del Yeso














BBbbbrrrrrr....


















Tontos...

















Well at least the ones that landed on my jacket were unique looking, but cummaaaan there are billions of them, prove it!


















A swim anyone?


Wishing you some chilly fingers, it's worth it!

Thursday, May 18, 2006

Bbbbrrrrrrrr......

This last week winter has finally decided that it should start to make itself known in Chile. Been a wonderful long dry summer, so no complaints, besides we need a little rain to wash the air.

Looking out the kitchen window this morning I can see the first dustings of snow on the hills, not much but I won't rush things.

Not much to share in the way of photos for the last two weeks, but I can tell you that if you get the chance to listen to the Tenzin Gyantso speak, go! Recently the Dalai Lama visited Santiago, and just because it seemed like the thing to do I landed up at his public talk on 'the power of compassion'. What a pleasure listening to a human being! Not a salesman nor politician, no hint of preacher, just a man who seemed to be able to recognise everyone else as just human beings. If I think about it he said nothing new, in fact the important things are so ordinary there is no ways they will make the news or the top 40. Simple enough that not many even pay attention. One of the interesting thoughts: those who use "me", "my" and "I" more, suffer a higher incidence of heart attack. Hhmm, makes you think about what really creates contentment, and probably why so many in the world appear so miserable. Strange thing... being compassionate could be a selfish pursuit.

Can't write a post without a photo, so...





















Thought this suited the story as it is along the trail from Tibet, and is also the site of Milarepa's cave. What a spot!!!

Wishing you some compassion.

Monday, May 01, 2006

Dehydrated bovine

Who knows how the stuff grows in Chile, by all accounts the seeds don't exist! At first you might think not a bad thing, as there will be less of those green leaves that taste like stinkbugs, the type TV chefs like to toss on just about anything. You got it - Coriander. Hmmm it should be a happy day that one doesn't find coriander (well the leaves at least), but ever since the Chile custom officials got up my nose by confiscating my biological threat to Chilean agriculture and farming my quest has been biltong revenge. MMmmwwwaaaahahaha! But coriander is to biltong like red is to Ferrari, so the search began.. Supermarkets, ja right... chances! but some little witch like lady who sells stalks and leaves outside knows of a spot near the station...hmmm. After putting out the word, coriander was located in Europe, and then just my luck, a local source, delivered in a small plastic bag on the corner of the street. The merchandise was tested and voila! Coriander in Chile!

Somewhere between memory, internet search and the trusty taste buds the mixture was concocted, marinated and hung. It has been a week, not too shabby, next time less pepper, less sugar and a bit more salt, maybe marinade for longer... nice! Uncannily healthy too, contrary to common knowledge biltong is also very high in vitamin C, well it is when you buy the whole sack of oranges to keep the flies off.





















Sack of organges comes in handy, well at least the sack part... can one get a vitamin C overdose?
































Now I just need some good cricket or rugby.

Glossary:
Coriander - Also know as Cilantro this side of the Atlantic
Biltong - South African dried salted meat, an essential sport watching companion. No! not like jerky - that stuff is gross. No! not like charque either - that stuff looks too gross to get close to.